Joe's Wrap

This was a most unusual leg to to our Big Bike Ride. I knew beforehand that Tony wouldn't be riding with me from Broome to Port Hedland but didn't expect that we would only get to ride 1 and half days together.

The problem I had with the front wheel was unfortunate but the solution that I came up with was good although expensive. At the time it was frustrating but it was resolved quickly and I was able to continue my journey although via a different route.

Once again the lesson that "non-cyclists" are not to be relied upon for route advice was reinforced. The Mt Newman road is no place for cyclists! The coastal route was a better choice contrary to what I had been told previously.

In hindsight it turned out OK for me but Tony has missed most of this leg for reasons outside of his control. I learnt that I can tour by myself and that other people engage more freely with a solo tourer that they do with a pair of tourers travelling together.

I met lots of wonderful people and enjoyed much generosity. I saw lots of great landscapes and although I missed quite a number of places I would like to have visited it has only whetted my appetite to tour more in Western Australia.

I would recommend travelling in WA during the Wildflower season. It was beyond my expectations and I suspect I didn't see the best of it. I plan to come back at the same time of year in the future.

At the end of the trip I met up with some work colleagues and then had a week holidaying with Lisa and Charli in Perth and Kalgoorlie.

Going back to Melbourne I am already thinking about next year, Perth to Adelaide and also returning to the Murray River in the kayak. So many adventures yet to have and so little time!

Day 33 Leeman to Bush Camp 40 km from Lancelin – 120 km

I was awake very early. I started packing at 5.30 am and went over to camp kitchen for breakfast. Anna came over as did another camper who was a windbag. I did the polite thing and chatted even though I just wanted him to go away. Anna kept her head down and said nothing but laughed about it later.

On the road it was a chilly 8 degrees but there was no wind so I quickly covered the 42 km to Jurien Bay. It is a nice seaside town with an Australian sea lion colony nearby. I had a coffee and toasted sandwich for morning tea.

 View from Grigson Lookout

Quandongs near Grigson Lookout 

Only 26 km to Cervantes which went very quick. Anna was stopping there because she wanted to see “the Pinnacles”. I was continuing on because I wanted knock off more km to make the next 2 days easier. As it happens the turn off to the Pinnacles is 17 km south of Cervantes.

Giant weather vane at Cervantes.  The town is named after a ship that was named for the author of Don Quixote, Miguel Cervantes.

Just before the turn off I spotted a cream canvas hat beside the road. Readers of earlier stages of this blog will be aware I have lost similar hats on at least 2 occasions at Punsand on Cape York and crossing the Pentecost River at El Questro. My record of losing hats is long. Anyway finding the hat made me very happy.

Some of  "the Pinnacles"

As I was feeling good I decided to turn off to the Pinnacles even though it was 6 km off the highway. Another win! I got in for free because I was on a bicycle. Apparently Parks WA thinks that making the effort to cycle in deserves a reward. I was chuffed and really enjoyed the Pinnacles. Unfortunately I couldn’t spend long there but I did do the 1.2 km scenic walk.

Nice Hat!

Afterward I raced back to the highway and resumed the journey towards Perth. I stopped at some sand dunes to get some pictures and had a nice chat with a couple from Busselton in a rest stop.

By 5.00 pm I was getting concerned that I needed to find a campsite. There wasn’t much cover but eventually I found a spot out of sight of the highway.  I set up the tent and made dinner.

I am near the Wangareen Nature Reserve which is an amazing area filled with these Grass-Trees (Xanthorea). There is a stand of these outside my tent.

Just across the road is the Lancelin Military Training Area. Fortunately it was very quiet
 

Day 34 Bush Camp to Yanchep 120 km and now I am in Joondalup!

It was a freezing night and despite being dressed in 3 layers my summer weight sleeping bag didn’t really do the job. When I woke at 6.00 am there was frost all around and it was very chilly. While boiling water to make a cup of tea my gas cylinder run out. Not a promising start to the day.

I was slow to pack up as I waited for the sun to take the chill off and I didn’t want to pack the tent up wet. Eventually I got on the road about 9.30 am. With 40 km to Lancelin and no breakfast I was only just going but after 20 km I found my rhythm. Lancelin is 8 km off the highway but it was my only opportunity for food until Yanchep still 80 km away so I had no option. It was a fast descent into town and I found a cafe where I got a coffee and a muffin.

       Mangles' Kangaroo Paw

I was in the bush just across the road from this last night but it didn't disturb my sleep.

I had a quick look around but knowing I still had 80 km to Yanchep I quickly headed back to the highway. My plan to get to Yanchep was based on the idea that it would leave me only 50 km to reach Perth tomorrow in time to meet Lisa and Charli when they arrive.

I left Lancelin at 1.00 pm and rode steady until 4.00 pm when I pulled into a café for a cup of tea. I rang Dave Spatcher to arrange a get together tomorrow. I also did some quick research on Yanchep and discovered there isn’t much there. I was hoping for a caravan park or a cheap motel as I wasn’t keen on sleeping in the bush as tonight looks like being very cold.

At 5.30 pm I was just reaching Yanchep when a small truck pulled over. The driver hailed me and said he was concerned that I wouldn't reach my destination before dark. Mike a Scottish immigrant who lives in Perth persuaded me to put the bike on the back of the truck. He drove me to the Jondalup Resort which is pretty flash. I don’t think the staff have ever seen a touring cyclist before.

Mike who stopped and gave me a ride into Joondalup. A great guy!

The result is I am 27 km from Perth CBD having ridden 2600 km from Broome. Mike drove me 30 km for which I am grateful as I really didn’t want another cold night in the tent.

When I looked at the map later I realised I was very close to the Yanchep National Park turb-off where I could have camped. It was an unusual way to finish my ride. Joondalup Resort is luxurious but curiously after so many nights in a tent I struggled to sleep even though I had pedalled 120 km.

I did enjoy the shower and the food.

Day 32 – Dongara. – Port Denison to Leeman 90 km

Wild night – very windy and some heavy rain but I slept well. When I opened my tent in the morning Anna had already packed up and was having breakfast in the camp kitchen. By the time I packed up she was gone.

On the road the wind was howling in my face and it was just a slog. Turned left after 30 km and got off the highway and headed down Indian Ocean Drive expecting a more scenic ride around the coast. I was anticipating something like the Great Ocean Road in Victoria but it wasn’t anywhere near that interesting.

Just on 11.00 am I spotted a wind shelter in a parking area and decided to pull in there for a break. Surprise – Anna was sitting in the shelter enjoying a break. We shared a moaning session about the feral headwind and then she took off again. I lingered for a while and then hopped back on the bike.

About 15 km from Leeman a car tooted and then pulled over. Terry and Chloe who I met 3 days earlier jumped out and gave me some oranges. I told them there was another cyclist ahead who would enjoy some oranges too.

Apparently they did pull over and give Anna some oranges however to my embarrassment Terry told Anna that her boyfriend told them to stop for her. Anna thought it was pretty funny. This on the same day I was asked if I had a Seniors Card when checking at the Caravan Park.

Eventually reached Leeman which is a sleepy fishing village. I had trouble finding the caravan park so I went into the Post Office and asked for directions. When I rolled into the caravan park Anna’s tent was already set up.

After a shower I went for a walk down the beach and was lucky enough to see an osprey with a fish it had just caught. What a thrill!

Dinner in the camp kitchen Tuna, Beans and Mexican Rice. Trying to eat through my remaining food stores before Perth.

Day 31- Geraldton to Dongara - Port Denison 70 km

Up early but couldn’’t leave until 8.00 am when the C’Park office opens so I went for a walk down the beach. It was bit chilly but there were fishermen who appeared to have been there all night.

Walked around to the Point Moore Lighthouse, There was an Osprey Nest above the dune on a pole erected by local conservationists. You could hear the young birds calling for parental attention. I didn’t see the parents though.

Back at the C’Park I packed up, Peter and Silvana were also checking out and were surprised I had made so much ground so quickly. Rode into town for a Macca’s coffee and then headed towards Dongara. Got slightly off track but eventually found the Brand Highway and really got rolling. The wind was not hindering me for once so I was cruising around 21 kph.

Stopped at Greenough Museum and Gardens which is in a early pioneer house. Very interesting and well worth the visit. A bit further up the road I stopped at the Greenough Historic Village. Having spent my museum budget for the day I took some pictures over the fence and bought a pot of tea.

Back on the road I was now pushing into the wind but still going well. Stopped to eat my sausage and salad roll and ate some bananas that Peter had given me.

One of the leaning trees in Greenough. The wind causes the growth to be a bit different.

Pushed on the Dongara there wasn’t much open so I went onto the twin town across the Irwin River – Port Denison. Had planned to go further but decided I had done enough so I looked for a caravan park. Checked into the Dongara Tourist Park.

Just got the tent set up when another touring cyclist arrived. Anna (from London) has been
following me since Exmouth where she met Tony.  She began her journey in Brisbane and has cycled via Darwin and Broome. We have had a lovely afternoon/evening chatting all things touring. Our attitudes are very similar, both enjoying solo touring. We decided to skip tuna and rice and went to the pub for a drink and then bought fish and chips which we ate in the camp picnic shelter.

We are both planning to do 100 km tomorrow but we won’t ride together even we are going the same way. Both of us enjoy our independence.

Wildflowers

Over the last few days I have taken a lot of wildflower photos. Rather that clog up the daily posts I am adding them in here.

Hooker's Banksia

Pink Spike Hakea

Blue Pincushion 

Red Pokers

Wiry Honeymyrtle

Mangles Kangaroo Paw